Remove a Bike Crank Without a Puller: Which Types Allow It

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Whether you can remove a bike crank without a puller depends on the crank type. Self-extracting cranks and two-piece cranks such as Shimano Hollowtech II need no puller, because the extraction is built in. Older three-piece cranks with a square taper or splined spindle do need one. Park Tool lists self-extracting and two-piece compression slotted cranks as the designs that need no conventional puller.

Start by working out which one you have, then follow that section.

Which crank do you have?

Crank type	What you see	Puller needed?	Source
Self-extracting (one-key release)	A threaded retaining ring around the crank bolt, in the arm	No. Loosening the bolt pushes the arm off.	Park Tool
Two-piece compression slotted (Shimano Hollowtech II, some FSA)	Left arm with a slot, two pinch bolts, and a cap on the end of the spindle; the right arm and spindle are one piece	No. Loosen the pinch bolts, remove the cap, pull the arm.	Park Tool
Three-piece, square taper	Plain bolt or nut under a dust cap; square hole in the arm	Yes	Park Tool
Three-piece, splined (Octalink, ISIS Drive)	Plain bolt under a cap; splined spindle	Yes	Park Tool

Self-extracting cranks

The crank bolt on a self-extracting system is right-hand threaded, so counter-clockwise loosens it. The retaining ring may be left- or right-hand threaded depending on the maker, and an arrow on the cap usually shows the direction (Park Tool).

1. Leave the retaining ring in the arm. Make sure it is tight before you start.
2. Turn the crank bolt counter-clockwise with a hex wrench.
3. Keep turning until the arm slides off the spindle. The bolt head presses against the ring and pushes the arm out.
4. On a three-piece crank, repeat on the other side. On a two-piece crank, pull the remaining arm out through the bottom bracket shell; a mallet tap on the spindle may help. With the cranks off, it is the ideal moment to measure the shell and find out what bottom bracket you have.

Some SRAM and Truvativ rings use a 16 mm hex. Park Tool says a bolt with a 5/8 inch head can stand in for a 16 mm hex tool.

Shimano Hollowtech II and other two-piece cranks

1. Loosen both pinch bolts on the left arm fully.
2. Unscrew the crank cap counter-clockwise. Shimano uses an eight-pointed star driver such as the Park Tool BBT-9 or BBT-10.2. FSA caps take an 8 mm hex wrench.
3. On Shimano, look for a stop plate in the arm slot and lift it with a thin screwdriver. It is a safety backup that blocks the arm from coming off.
4. Pull the left arm off by hand. If it is dirty or sticky, tap it lightly with a soft mallet.
5. Pull the right arm and spindle out through the drive side. A mallet tap on the left end of the spindle may be needed.

When you reinstall, the pinch bolts go to 12 to 15 Nm (88 to 132 inch-pounds), tightened alternately in half-turns so both end up even (Park Tool). The left arm only fits 180 degrees from the right arm because the splines are keyed.

Square taper and splined cranks: why you need a puller

A square tapered spindle is slightly sloped, so it wedges into the square hole of the arm as the bolt is tightened (Park Tool). That wedge is why the arm will not simply pull off after the bolt is out. Park Tool’s removal procedure for these cranks uses a crank puller, and it warns that if the puller is not fully threaded into the arm, the threads of the arm can be damaged. This guide does not cover hammering or prying, because the arm’s threads are what the puller grips.

1. Shift the chain onto the largest chainring to protect your hands from the teeth.
2. Remove the dust cap if there is one, then the crank bolt or nut and any washer under it.
3. Pick the puller by bolt size: M8 bolts use a CCP-22 type puller, and larger M12 or M15 bolts use a CCP-44 type. A universal CWP-7 covers both.
4. Back the puller’s driver out so it sits recessed in the tool, then thread the body fully into the arm.
5. Turn the driver clockwise until the arm comes off the spindle.
6. Unthread the puller and repeat on the other side.

A puller is a one-time tool for most people. A local shop or bike co-op can lend or use theirs, or you can buy a crank puller.

For other roadside and home fixes, see our multi-tool guide.

Reinstalling a crank

Step	Square taper	Splined spindle	Source
Spindle surface	Leave it clean of grease	Grease the splines	Park Tool
Bolt or nut	Grease or anti-seize under the head and on the threads	Same	Park Tool
Arm position	Right arm at 6 o’clock, left arm 180 degrees opposite	Same	Park Tool
Torque	About 34 to 50 Nm (300 to 450 inch-pounds), depending on brand. Use the maker’s number if you have it	Same	Park Tool

Park Tool also notes that a crank run with a loose bolt wears the square hole. Once the spindle end is no longer recessed in the hole, the bolt cannot clamp the arm and the crank needs replacing. If a crank creaks after you reassemble it, our guide to creaks that only show up under load walks through the usual causes.

Tools and prep

• A hex wrench or socket that fits the crank bolt (Park Tool’s tool list includes hex wrenches and a crank wrench).
• The puller that matches your crank type, if you have a three-piece crank.
• Grease or anti-seize, rags, and a torque wrench for reassembly.
• A repair stand makes the job easier, but it is not required.

If you also plan to remove the pedals, our note on greasing pedal threads covers the reassembly.